The Mexican-Maya Pantry, Part Two: Herbs and Spices

Last month we began our exploration of the Mexican-Maya pantry with a look at the most Mexican of ingredients: Chiles. This month we are continuing the journey by turning our attention to the myriad herbs and spices that are commonly used to create the unique and delicious flavors in the nation and region’s favorite dishes.

Cilantro

Cilantro (coriander for non US English speakers), whose name we get from Spanish, is an almost ever-present ingredient in Mexican cuisine, used both as a flavoring ingredient and as a bright garnish as well as being an important part of many of the recado spice blends used in Maya cooking to season meats and flavor stews. Its distinctive citrusy taste is required in a wide variety of salsas, soups and marinades. It is almost always used fresh, especially when being finely chopped to garnish tacos. 

Epazote

Epazote is another essential ingredient in Mexican-Maya cooking. It has a unique astringent flavor and robust pungent aroma, which have been compared to an earthy combination of citrus and minty notes. It is often used in dishes that heavily feature black beans, such as frijol colados, as well as in soups and stews. Maya cuisine values epazote highly for its digestive properties, as it is considered an natural remedy for intestinal discomfort, and its use in bean dishes is said to alleviate the less desirable effects of eating a lot of beans.

Epazote is known by a few other names such as Mexican tea, Jesuit’s tea, payqu or mastruz. It can be difficult to find in the US, but it may be available in areas with stores specializing in Latino ingredients.  It is well worth the effort of finding it, as, while its flavor can be overwhelming if used excessively, when used judiciously, it adds a distinctive and authentic touch to Mexican-Maya fare. Fresh is always best when it comes to epazote, however dried epazote will be better than substituting for other ingredients.

If you are unable to find epazote you can use a number of ingredients, such as fennel, cilantro or flat leaf parsley in its place, however these will make a difference to the flavor of the dish and will not have the same digestive effects.

Hoja Santa

Hoja santa, which means sacred leaf, is  a large heart shaped leaf which has a complex flavor profile reminiscent of anise, mint and black pepper. The plant itself (piper auritum) is part of the peppercorn family, and contains many of the same oils as the sassafras tree. It grows both in Mexico and the southern US, where those similar oils and flavor sometimes lead to it being called the root beer plant.

The leaves have two primary uses in Mexican-Maya cooking, either as an ingredient or as a wrapping for other food. It is often added to soups, stews and salsas, where it adds a subtle yet distinctive flavor (particularly if the leaves are fresh and young). It is an important ingredient in many regional specialities across Mexico, such as in Oaxaca’s mole amarillo and mole verde and the fish sauces popular in Veracruz. It is sometimes used in barbacoa in parts of the north as well. In the Yucatán Peninsula it can be used as an alternative to banana leaves for wrapping tamales, and is also often used to wrap cheeses to keep them fresh.

Cinnamon

Known as canela in Spanish, cinnamon is an important spice for both savory and sweet dishes, as well as being used in a number of drinks. It is often used to add a subtle warm sweetness to the flavor of stews and meat marinades, contributing to the complex layers of flavors that define Mexican-Maya cuisine. It is also used in many national dishes such as mole poblano. It features in many traditional desserts, such as the popular and delicious arroz con leche. It is also used to flavor both cold and hot chocolate drinks and the corn based drink atole as well as being a special touch in the classic Mexican coffee café de olla. 

Achiote

Achiote, also known as annatto, is one of the signature dishes of modern Maya cuisine. Used for its earthy flavor and vibrant red color, achiote seeds which are gathered from pods are usually made into a paste using the juice from sour oranges and/or limes. This serves as the base for recado rojo, a spice blend that is essential for culturally significant foods such as cochinita pibil, a slow cooked roast pork delicacy which is probably the region’s most famous dish. Achiote paste can also be used as a marinade for chicken, turkey or duck and even sometimes fish. It features in some recipes for moles and al pastor marinades as well.

Mexican Oregano

Mexican oregano differs from the Mediterranean version that is popular in much of the world. In fact the two plants are not closely related at all, however they do have slightly similar flavor profiles, with the Mexican possessing a  more citrusy and floral flavor. It features heavily in Maya cuisine, lending its savory and fragrant essence to pibipollo, chirmole, poc chuc and escabeche among other dishes.

If you cannot get your hands on Mexican oregano, we would advise against using Mediterranean oregano as a substitute, and instead using marjoram, which is a closer flavor match. You should however be able to find the real stuff in any good Mexican or Latin American grocery store.

Allspice

Allspice known as either pimienta gorda or pimienta de jamaica in Spanish is used both for seasoning meats such as turkey or venison and as a key ingredient in recado negro, a paste available in local markets that is used as the base for Maya dishes such as chirmole or relleno negro. It has a peppery flavor that is similar to cloves and can also be used to add a warming aromatic depth to stews.

Cloves

Clavos de olor, as they are known in Spanish, are flower buds that impart a strong distinctive flavor. They are usually used along with allspice and cinnamon, whose flavors they complement well. Their primary use is recado pastes and marinades, as well as being valued in Maya culture as a natural remedy for digestive ailments.

Garlic

Garlic, or ajo, is a fundamental ingredient in Mexican-Maya cuisine. It is used both minced and sauteed to form the base of soups and stews, and is often used roasted to enhance the flavors of meats and vegetables. It is also often used in the many salsas which appear at every table come meal time. As in other parts of the world garlic is also valued for its medicinal properties, and it is possible to find it in all manner of local medicines.

Basil

As with oregano, the basil found in Mexico, known as albahaca is different from the version popularized by European culinary traditions. The flavor is only faintly reminiscent of the genovese variety, but is still used in a variety of ways, from giving a refreshing flavor burst to salsa verde to a novel addition to some takes on pico de gallo. It also has a ceremonial role in Maya culture, where it is placed along with other herbs on altars to cut the bad energies of malevolent spirits.

Spearmint

Mint is known as yerba buena in Mexico, and is a versatile staple of the Mexican-Maya pantry. It is used in the fruity agua fresca drinks popular during warm weather, as an addition to salads and desserts and is a key ingredient in the ever popular meatball soup albondigas. In some parts of Mexico it is also common to add mint to rice before serving.

Parsley

Parsley, perejil in Spanish, is a common ingredient for salsas, with the flat leaved variety being used almost exclusively. It is prized not only for its refreshing flavor but also for its vibrant color.

Other herbs

Other herbs such as rosemary, romero, and rue, ruda, are also quite common. This list is not exhaustive, and there are many herbs that are used in specific dishes or are popular in communities in the region.

Recados rojo/blanco/negro

Several of the above sections mentioned the use of the ingredients in recados. Recados are a thick paste made of a variety of herbs and spices which are readily available in local markets and supermarkets in the Yucatán Peninsula. Many local dishes are very time intensive to make, and purchasing the correct recado for each dish can save a great deal of time in the kitchen for families who want to make traditional dishes.

Check out the recipe section of our blog page for some great recipes from the Zona Maya and beyond, and check back for the rest of our series on the Mexican-Maya pantry.

If you want to sample the unique flavors of the Mexican Caribbean, the best place is in the kitchens of our local families. Na’atik’s MaS (Maya and Spanish) immersion students stay with local families during their time with us, sharing three meals a day with their host family. To find out more about how you can improve your language skills and experience the real Mexico, visit our immersion page or send our team an email at mas@naatikmexico.org today.