John's Chapter One: Living la vida perro
I read somewhere that in Moscow dogs ride the subway into the city every morning and then ride it back out to the suburbs every night. It's hard to imagine a dog sitting quietly in an early morning train, head turned down, slightly bleary eyed and half-asleep like the rest of the passengers. His thoughts turned inward to the all things he’d have to sniff at and pee on today before he could call it quits and take the same train back home. Just seems too much like an art project.I read somewhere that in Moscow dogs ride the subway into the city every morning and then ride it back out to the suburbs every night. It's hard to imagine a dog sitting quietly in an early morning train, head turned down, slightly bleary eyed and half-asleep like the rest of the passengers. His thoughts turned inward to the all things he’d have to sniff at and pee on today before he could call it quits and take the same train back home. Just seems too much like an art project.Most dogs in Carrillo have never even worn a leash. Some owners keep their dogs fenced in around the house but that’s the exception, not the rule. The majority have a home base but are otherwise free range. Their house isn’t the extent of their world; it’s just a place they sleep at, know the family, and get fed. Beyond that they wander the streets as they please, deciding their own goals, schedules, and boundaries.In fact, I see dogs walking around every day. Even if I’m never exactly sure where they’re going. Perhaps there’s a good shady spot where they like to sleep. Or a shop that throws out food. Maybe even a boyfriend or a girlfriend to visit. Where ever it is, there’s often a clear sense of purpose to their walk. I’m sure these dogged rovers would appreciate the convenience of easily available public transit.
Of course, canis lupus familiaris is a social animal and all this independence doesn’t mean they’re lonely. Aside from their adopted homes, you also will occasionally see little gangs of dogs together. These ragtag groups of mutts create makeshift packs that wander and play. And not all comers are welcome. I once saw the dog that lives across the street from me try to join a group only to be rejected. There’s few things in the world sadder than watching a dog feel like an outcast.
Which ultimately is the trade-off. For all this independence there’s a sadness to many of these dogs. Some are sick or malnourished. Many limp from bad run-ins with cars, which becomes all too likely when you live on the street. And to us humans they can end up quite a bit more intimidating than their American cousins. Even if you know they won’t bite you, it’s hard not to feel a little afraid when a grizzled street dog starts to chase you.
In the end the best I can describe it is that the dogs in Carrillo are a bit more grown up than those back in the US. Our pets, with their bed privileges, chew toys, and special treats, often seem to be in a state of frozen adolescence. Their dependence means they’re dependents. The dogs here fend for themselves. With that comes character and all the sadness which it entails. It might be a fuller life, but it’s also a harder one.
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